TL;DR
For Mini or Mini S, charge the internal battery, mount the enclosure level with a clear sky view, and connect from inside a Drivurs Race Session. For Micro, provide stable 3.5-16 V external power, protect the bare board, mount it securely, then use the same in-app scan. Wait for live telemetry and GPS Ready before moving.
Common mistakes that cause bad data
- Running before GPS is ready
- Mounting where the device can’t see the sky (deep cup holders, glove box, under heavy tint)
- Leaving the official RaceBox app open (it can hold the telemetry connection)
- Comparing runs from different roads/directions/conditions and treating them as “gains”
- Changing mounting/position between runs and wondering why results drift
Pick the correct model instructions first
| Model | Power before setup | Mounting concern | Live Drivurs support |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mini | Charge its internal battery over USB-C | Stable, level, clear sky view | Yes |
| Mini S | Charge its internal battery over USB-C | Same portable mounting rules as Mini | Yes |
| Micro | Supply regulated 3.5-16 V DC; allow 100 mA peaks | Protect and strain-relieve the bare board | Yes |
Mini S and Micro can store standalone recordings in their own device memory. This guide does not represent that hardware feature as a Drivurs import workflow; keep Drivurs connected for the live session described here.
What you need
- A supported RaceBox device (Mini, Mini S, or Micro)
- A phone with Bluetooth enabled
- Drivurs installed from the App Store or Google Play
- A safe, legal place to test (empty road, closed course, or track - never public road racing)
Step 1: Mounting (the “silent” setup step)
GPS-based performance tracking depends heavily on mounting and sky visibility.
Basic mounting rules:
- Place the device where it has a clear view of the sky (dashboard, rear deck, or near the windshield)
- Avoid pockets, glove boxes, and deep cup holders
- Keep it stable - movement adds noise and confusion
If you’re running multiple tests, keep mounting consistent across sessions.
Step 2: Use the right power path
Mini and Mini S: charge with a compatible USB-C cable and charger. They are available to connect whenever the internal battery is not depleted; the manual does not describe a physical power switch.
Micro: do not look for a charging step. Connect a correctly polarized 3.5-16 V DC source to the supplied lead. RaceBox recommends lower input voltage, such as 5 V, for better thermal behavior and a source capable of 100 mA peaks. Operating outside the listed range can permanently damage the board.
After power is stable, confirm the device appears in the Drivurs scan list.
If you’re unsure, verify you can see it in the device scan list (inside the Drivurs connect modal).
Step 3: Phone permissions (Bluetooth)
On iOS/Android, Bluetooth permissions can block scanning/connecting.
If Drivurs can’t find devices:
- Ensure Bluetooth is on
- Ensure Drivurs has Bluetooth permission
- On older Android versions, location permission can affect BLE scanning (depending on OS behavior)
Step 4: Close other apps using the RaceBox connection
RaceBox telemetry over BLE is often “single-consumer” in practice: if the official RaceBox app (or another app) is connected, Drivurs may not receive telemetry reliably.
If you see this message in Drivurs:
- “Waiting for telemetry… Ensure the RaceBox app is fully closed”
…it’s a strong signal that another app is connected, or the connection is incomplete.
Step 5: Connect in Drivurs, not system settings
- Start a race session in Drivurs.
- Tap Connect.
- Accept the supported-device notice and Bluetooth permission prompt when shown.
- The RaceBox Devices modal opens and scans for Mini, Mini S, or Micro.
- Select your device and tap Connect.
Once connected, Drivurs begins reading device info and subscribing to telemetry.
Step 6: Wait for “GPS Ready” before you run
Drivurs shows readiness states because runs built on stale or missing samples aren’t useful.
Common statuses:
- Connecting… (Drivurs is waking the device and starting telemetry)
- Waiting for telemetry… (no usable packets yet)
- GPS Not Ready (telemetry exists but fix quality isn’t sufficient)
- GPS Ready (ready to run)
If you’re stuck on “GPS Not Ready,” move to an open sky area and wait a bit. Urban canyons, heavy tint, garages, and tall trees can slow time-to-fix.
Optional: speed mode warnings (when Drivurs asks to change a setting)
Depending on your device and configuration, Drivurs may show a warning about a RaceBox speed mode setting (for example, “3D speed” vs ground speed).
Practical guidance:
- If Drivurs recommends a change for timing consistency, read the prompt and follow it if it matches your use case.
- If you’re unsure, leave the setting as-is, record a couple test runs, and focus on repeatability (same road, direction, and setup).
Avoid chasing settings as a substitute for good mounting and open sky view.
Step 7: Run a safe test and review
After a short test pull (in a safe location):
- Review the run and the session bests
- Watch for validation labels (valid / warnings / invalid / incomplete)
- If a run is flagged, treat it as “context,” not truth - improve conditions and try again
Consistency matters more than chasing a single hero run.
Troubleshooting (quick table)
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Device not found | Permissions or Bluetooth off | Enable Bluetooth, grant permissions, rescan |
| Connect fails | Device in use / unstable state | Power-cycle device, try again |
| “Waiting for telemetry” | Official RaceBox app still connected | Fully close other apps; reconnect |
| “GPS Not Ready” for a long time | Poor sky view | Move to open sky; wait; avoid garages |
| Runs feel inconsistent | Mounting or conditions changed | Keep mounting + road + direction consistent |
| Micro powers off under load | Supply or connection cannot hold the input | Verify polarity, voltage range, connector, and peak-current capacity |
| Micro is exposed to moisture or debris | Bare-board installation is unprotected | Stop and add a suitable enclosure before use |
| Device appears in system settings but not Drivurs | It was paired outside the app or another client owns it | Forget/disconnect as needed, close other clients, then scan inside Drivurs |
Tips for better consistency (without over-claiming accuracy)
- Use the same road and direction (grade + wind matter).
- Wait for GPS readiness before each run.
- Keep mounting identical.
- Avoid heavy traffic and rapid lane changes.
What the supported contract does and does not include
Drivurs currently names RaceBox Mini, Mini S, and Micro as supported live Bluetooth devices. The app scans, connects, subscribes to telemetry, evaluates GPS readiness, and records the live Race Session. This does not extend to the original full-size RaceBox, Dragy, or AiM Solo II.
Although Mini S and Micro expose device-side recording through the RaceBox protocol, do not treat that as a promised Drivurs import feature. If your workflow depends on importing a session recorded without the phone, verify the current app behavior before the event.
Next steps (Drivurs)
- Feature page: RaceBox in Drivurs
- Compare models: RaceBox Mini vs Mini S vs Micro
- Use case: For Track Drivers
Related guides
- Pillar: Racing sessions, validation, and leaderboards
- Same cluster: How accurate is GPS for racing apps?
- Same cluster: How does drag timing work in GPS-based apps?
- Different cluster: Should you use a build log or spreadsheet to track car mods?